Chain Lube Types and When Makers Say to Apply Them

Lube comes in a few types, and each trades one thing for another. The saved references don't give a mileage or monthly schedule from any maker. They do say when lube goes on, and one repair reference gives its author's views on products to avoid.

The main types

Wet or liquid lube. Liquid lubricants, like oil, penetrate to the inside of the links and are not easily displaced, but quickly attract dirt.¹ The same reference says the outside of the chain should be wiped dry once the lube has had time to soak in.¹

Dry lube. These often contain wax or PTFE, carried by an evaporating solvent. They stay cleaner in use, but are less durable and require frequent maintenance.¹

Thick oil thinned with solvent. One repair reference describes a popular family of chain lubes that mix a thick oil-type lubricant with a volatile solvent. The mix is thin enough to soak in, then the solvent evaporates and leaves the thick oil behind.²

Wax. Immersion wax, where the chain is dipped in melted wax, stays cleaner in use and is reasonably durable. It needs a thorough degreasing first, plus some equipment to melt the wax. The same passage warns that overheating melted wax can be a fire hazard, and describes a water bath, or equipment made for melting wax, as the safer way than a pan.¹ Follow your own manual and the wax maker's instructions. Another reference points out that cooled wax isn't sticky, so it doesn't attract dirt to the outside of the chain as readily.²

How best to lube a chain is a debated question. One repair reference says plainly that experts disagree. So treat any one type as a trade-off, not a winner.

When lube goes on

Here the sources agree in plain terms.

• After a clean. The bike-tool maker's guide says to always lubricate the chain after cleaning, and to use a purpose-made chain lube.³ Its washing guide says the chain must be re-lubricated.⁴
• Never onto a dirty chain. Lubricating one washes abrasive particles into the rollers.¹
• Not on a brand-new chain, if you can avoid it. New chains come with factory lube, usually good for several hundred miles of service in dry, clean conditions. Any wet lube you add will dilute it.²

The cleaning steps come first, and they have their own page.

How much, and where

The guide says to apply a small drop to each individual rivet, then wipe the excess lube from the chain so dirt doesn't collect on it.³

One repair reference adds that you should always oil a chain on the inner side, the side facing the sprockets. It gives its reason: most of the dirt thrown up lands on the outside of the chain.²

One author's view on products to avoid

This is the opinion of one repair reference's author, not a maker's rule. The author says it's hard to say which lubricants are best, but lists some as "real no-nos".² What it says about each:

• Automotive motor oil contains detergent, to wash away combustion products.²
• Household oil lacks extreme-pressure additives and is acidic. It tends to gum up.²
• Thin spray products are intended more as solvents than lubricants. They evaporate quickly.²

Separately, in the author's opinion, spray lubricants should not be used on bicycle chains.² This is one author's view. For what is right for your e-bike, follow its manual.

How often

No saved maker page gives a set interval for lube. For an interval on your e-bike, look in its manual, and ask whoever services it. Dry lubes are the one case where a reference is clear: they require frequent maintenance.¹

Before you buy lube

• Does the manual name a lube type, or say what to avoid?
• Will you clean first, every time?
• Are you happy with the upkeep that goes with the type?

A drivetrain with a worn chain won't be saved by lube alone. Measure the chain as well.